The floors are not level and have various cracks and dents.
Bitumen floor screed.
After surveying the floor i came up with a completely different solution which involved milling the stone with coarse abrasive pads to remove the screed and bitumen and then resurface with diamond encrusted burnishing pads of medium and fine grits which would result in a smooth finish.
I would like to put down the thermal boards but haven t got the 10mm to spare or the extra 200.
The bitumen is about 20 mm thick and i believe serves as moisture barrier as well as an appearance finish.
There is no membrane beneath your floor or any others of this period.
The next step is to prime the floor using the kerakoll keragrip eco primer.
Firstly check it is flooring grade bitumen and has been down long enough.
So i will have to go for the screed or keep scrapping once i am sure it is bitumen.
If unsure please contact the kerakoll worldwide global service on 01527 578000 or via info kerakoll co uk.
Look at my posts and you may see images of mine.
When removing an existing floor bitumen is easily identified as a black substance that is firmly adhered to the screed remaining behind after the floor covering is removed.
If so then there should be no issues following this option.
The marley tiles and bitumen acted as a dpm of sorts.
The damp course will exist in the walls only.
After surveying the floor i came up with a completely different solution which involved milling the stone with coarse abrasive pads to remove the screed and bitumen and then resurface with diamond encrusted burnishing pads of medium and fine grits which would result in a smooth finish.
Pity you took the screed off as like me you have an inch to build back up.
I m doing a kitchen modernisation in my ex council house which was built in 1947.
Due to the nature of bitumen it seeps into the screed and is therefore very difficult to remove.
Looking for an alternative solution they reached out to tile doctor and so i went over to take a look.